Category Archives: Food

My personal dietary policy

Let me start this by saying something: I eat both fish and meat. I do not have a problem with this. I have personally bought into the idea that it is OK to kill and eat animals for no other reason than that they are tasty.

Animal suffering? I’m broadly against it. If you give me a choice between two equally tasty steaks, one of which has been factory farmed in horrible conditions and the other of which has been lovingly reared in wide grassy fields, with regular massages and a fulfilling spiritual life before it died peacefully, but this steak costs twice as much, I’d definitely go for the pricier steak. If it cost 10 times as much I might ask if you had somewhere something in between where maybe it was pretty OK with its life, but it wasn’t really fulfilled, ya know? And maybe it had a bit of a headache when it finally got turned into burger. So call it a more than mild preference but not an overarching moral commandment. I feel like I buy into worse things than animal suffering on a daily basis just by being part of the modern world, and that once I’ve agreed that it’s OK to kill them it’s a bit hypocritical to go “As long as you do it without any suffering!”. Other people might set the mark there differently, and that’s fine. This is a personal preference.

So I’m OK with eating meat.

But not, you know, a lot of it.

I think, culturally, our relationship with meat is very dysfunctional. We eat far too much of it – I believe more than we have at any point in history (that may not be true right at this minute – I believe it’s gone down a bit, especially since the recession, but this is certainly true if you count the last 50 years or so). Meat used to be a luxury item, and now it’s a staple.

That being said, we do a lot of things differently than we did historically. That’s not necessarily a bad thing. I state this merely as evidence that we don’t necessarily need to be eating this much meat.

So why do I care?

The main reasons I care are ecological ones: Meat production is polluting and energetically expensive. It’s by no means our worst crime of this sort, but it’s a pretty significant one. Fish is even worse. We are literally driving the fish supply to extinction by our fish addiction (I haven’t formed a very coherent opinion on farmed fish. I’m broadly pro it, but think it is usually ecologically worse than farmed meat. This may not be true. I haven’t done the research as well as I should)

Additionally, I think our current expectations around meat are the source of a lot of the worst excesses of the meat industry: We expect a lot of it and we expect it cheaply. What did we think farmers were going to do achieve this? Plant more cow-trees? When you’re dealing with something where the overwhelming majority of the costs are from living creatures, the obvious way to cost-cut is to treat those living creatures worse. This is true with animals, and it’s also true with humans. Why do you think sweatshops exist?

How do I propose to fix this?

Well. Were I in charge, I would probably fix this by increasing taxes on meat production and using the proceeds to subsidise suitable vegetarian alternatives. It’s a blunt tool, but an effective one. Sadly, my plans to become supreme world leader have been delayed slightly, so in the mean time I’m limited to following my personal plan (and trying to convince you to do so as well).

It’s a pretty radical proposition, which you probably wouldn’t have thought of as a solution to the “People eat too much meat” problem.

Are you ready for it?

Eat less meat.

Shocking, right?

This is, of course, completely fucking useless advice.

The problem with advice like this is that it’s not quantifiable. How much is less meat? It’s easy to slip, and to let boundaries shift. I should know: I tried to live by this nebulous advice for a year or two after stopping being vegetarian. One day I woke up and realised something: I was eating a hell of a lot of meat.

Which is why I imposed my current set of rules. I have meat quotas. My rules are as follows:

  • Eat meat no more than once a week (exception: If I cooked it myself, I’m allowed to eat leftovers)
  • Eat fish no more than once a month
  • Given the option, prefer ethically sourced meat
  • Given the option, prefer less energetically intensive meat (in practice this means “If there’s a tasty chicken based option, take the tasty chicken based option. Otherwise don’t worry about it”)

These are stricter quotas than I expect most people to follow. I was vegetarian for 5 years and pescatarian for another 5 after that, so I know well how to live without meat and fish. It forms the core idea of how I think this should work though: Hard and fast numbers, flexibility about how you implement them.

If you are currently a meat eater but agree that you should be eating less meat, this is the strategy I would propose following:

  1. Think about how often you eat meat (or whatever you’re trying to adjust your intake of) in a given week. Take the median, or maybe a value slightly above median but well below the maximum
  2. Impose that as your starting quota
  3. Once a month (say on the first Monday of a month), consider how hard your meat quota has been to stick to. If the answer is “easy”, adjust it down slightly
  4. Stop tinkering when you hit a point you are ethically and practically comfortable with

You start off at more or less your usual habits, and gradually adjust downwards. The quotas give you a specific, measurable, goal and makes you generally aware of how much meat you’re eating. You do have to adjust your lifestyle but, well, that’s the point, and you have a real sense of progress whilst doing so.

As an aside, this is quite distinct from approaches like Meatless Monday, which anecdotally seems not to help. I’ve seen a few people do it, and all that happens is that they eat more meat on the surrounding days. Additionally, the lack of flexibility makes them really resent it because often they’ll get invited out on that day.

The nice thing about the quotas is that they are strict but flexible – you impose hard limits about how much you can eat, but allow flexibility in terms of when you do it. It’s worked very well for me, and I think with some experimentation to find boundaries it should work very well for everyone.

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A meta-recipe

I moved flat in December.

Shortly after I moved, an oriental supermarket opened up not a minute’s walk from my front door (it literally takes me longer to get out of my building than it takes for me to get the supermarket from there). This fills me with joy.

As a result my closest source of food to home contains fairly exotic Asian ingredients (or at least exotic to white boy here. I imagine it’s the Chinese equivalent of Tesco). Naturally this has influenced my cooking quite significantly.

The problem with this of course being that I have only the roughest idea of how to cook most Asian cuisine. I’ve had a go in the past at a few standard recipes, but I’ve never really been very recipe oriented anyway.

Fortunately, I’ve eaten a lot of Asian food of various types, and am always extremely happy to improvise! The result is a lot of food that is, shall we say, Asian inspired…

Here’s a meta recipe I’ve been cooking a lot recently. It’s basically soup. It works pretty well.

The primary starting point is you take hot water, put it on to boil, and add rice vinegar (I’ve been using sushi vinegar recently, but I’ve used brown rice vinegar in the past and both work well) and about a teaspoon of Japanese red pepper (this is really nice. It has a lot of flavour and just a little bit of heat, so you can use lots of it to get a really nice flavour without it getting too hot). Towards the end of the cooking process I also add a large dollop of miso (I’m currently using red miso). I’ve vaguely gathered the impression that you’re not supposed to boil miso because it kills stuff in it, which is why I add it towards the end once I’ve reduced the heat.

So to recap, we’re basically making a broth that is rice vinegar, red pepper and miso. Mmm.

Other things that are very tasty to add to this broth include sesame (either whole seeds or oil) and peanut butter.

No, really. Peanut butter. Don’t knock it. It’s an amazing addition.

To this broth we then add… stuff. Pretty much whatever is available. That’s why it’s a meta-recipe.

Things I have successfully added:

  • Noodles
  • Glutinous rice (this makes it less of a soup and more of a rice dish, also increases the cooking time by lots. I’m tempted to premake a whole bunch of glutinous rice just so I can add bits of it instead of cooking it each time)
  • Frozen vegetable gyoza (don’t judge. These are amazing)
  • Eggs (especially salted duck eggs)
  • Tofu
  • Frozen soy beans
  • Frozen peas
  • Bean sprouts
  • Any other vegetables to hand
  • etc.

It’s not complicated. You’re basically making a big bowl of tasty soup and adding anything you have to hand.

So, yeah, basically this is a post saying “HEY GUYS HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT THIS THING CALLED SOUP IT’S PRETTY AMAZING?”

But specifically you should try out the incredibly simple broth “recipe”, because it works really well (don’t forget to try adding peanut butter. Unless you’re allergic, in which case you probably shouldn’t), and you should also try out salted duck eggs, because they’re really nice.

And don’t forget about the frozen gyoza. Mmm. Gyoza.

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Gluten and dairy free brownies

So I have this brownie recipe. I’m rather a fan of it.

I’m going to a friend’s party on Saturday. She’s recently concluded she might have problems with gluten, and she already has problems with dairy. This is sad, and I thought I’d attempt to bring some sort of tasty dessert she could actually eat. The brownie recipe seemed like a good candidate, as it’s actually quite light on flour and I’ve made it successfully with margarine before.

The first batch I made didn’t really work so well, but after some tinkering with the recipe this is what I came up with. It worked really very well.

  • 200ml sunflower oil
  • 2 cups caster sugar
  • 1 cup dark cocoa
  • 1 cup ground almonds
  • 5 eggs

Mix everything together very thoroughly, then bake in a greased tray as before (140C for about 20 minutes).

These seem to bake slightly faster than the normal brownie recipe. It might be worth trying a lower temperature.

I also think the amount of oil could be reduced slightly (it’s already reduced from my first batch).

But basically, the result is really good. I in no way feel like these are hurt by making them gluten free or dairy free – normally using margarine instead of butter results in a slightly less rich brownies, but I think the almonds help compensate for that, and they don’t hurt the texture at all.

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How to hard “boil” an egg

Boiling an egg is reputedly easy. It’s not. It’s ridiculously easy to get wrong and to end up with eggs which are under or over cooked, or which break the shell while cooking, or are mangled when you peel. Also you’re not actually supposed to boil the water the egg is in – it results in a sulphurous yolk and a rubbery egg. Apparently about 80C is the right temperature for hard cooking an egg.

The internet is full of advice on how to do it right, as is basically every cookbook. I’ve found a lot of the proper ways are very hard to get consistent, depending on cooling rates or the age of the eggs you’re cooking. Here’s what I’ve found works:

  1. Cover the eggs with cold water. There should be quite a depth of water above the eggs – at least an inch, preferably two
  2. Add a heaped spoon of baking soda. Don’t skip this step. It makes the eggs dramatically easier to peel (apparently because it changes the pH of the water)
  3. Put the pan on high heat until the water just starts to boil – it shouldn’t be boiling violently, it should have just started to bubble slightly
  4. Turn the heat way down to its lowest setting. You want the temperature to drop but not too rapidly (standard advice seems to be to turn the heat off at this point, but I’ve found the results of doing that incredibly variable)
  5. Leave it for about ten minutes on the low heat
  6. Pour out the water and replace it with cold water. Leave it a few minutes
  7. Your hard boiled eggs should now be warm but not hot and perfectly cooked. If you want to keep any you should pour the water out again and replace it with more cold water. Any you want to eat now should be cool enough to touch and easy to peel

(Hat tip to Tim Ferris for the baking soda trick. I can’t make the egg blowing work but they’re so easy to peel with the baking soda it hardly matters)

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My Brownie Recipe

I brought in brownies to work today, and it caused me to realise that I’ve never posted my brownie recipe.

Given that my brownie recipe is the best in the entire world, and really easy to make to boot, this is a mistake that should be rectified.

Note: Cups here are US cups. i.e. about 240ml

Ingredients

  • One pat butter (I think these are 250g)
  • Two cups granulated white sugar
  • One cup cocoa. The darker the better. Use the best you can find – these brownies live or die on the quality of their cocoa
  • One cup flour
  • Four eggs

Directions

Melt the butter. Stir in the sugar and the cocoa until it’s thoroughly mixed. Add the flour and eggs and stir further.

Decant the whole mix into a greased baking tray (I usually make these about half an inch deep). Bake at 160C for about 20 minutes. Check the brownies religiously towards the end. If you overcook these they will be too dry (still tasty, but less delicious). The brownies are ready when you can stick a knife in the middle and it comes out clean.

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